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Worcester Bosch Boiler Troubleshooting

Experiencing problems with your Worcester Bosch boiler? As good as Worcester boilers are, they aren’t completely immune to faults. The good news is that in many cases, the issues can be resolved without the help of a professional. In this guide, we’ll explain some of the most common issues with Worcester boilers, how they can be fixed and what error codes to look out for.

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Common Worcester Bosch boiler problems

If you have a Worcester Bosch boiler installed in your home, it’s a good idea to be aware of the problems that may occur with it.

There are different models of Worcester Bosch boilers, so it’s always good to know which model you have. There is usually a label on the bottom of your boiler which details this. It is really useful to keep your boiler operating manual in a safe place as this can be used for recording your annual boiler service and also has a fault finding section which details all the boiler fault codes that apply to your particular boiler.

Some of these issues may not apply if your boiler is not a combination boiler, and sometimes, faults can be related to your heating system rather than your boiler. It’s always a good idea to get in touch with a qualified Gas Safe registered heating engineer if it’s not something simple like topping up boiler pressure.

 

Low Pressure 

When your boiler system is cool, check the pressure gauge. It should be between 1 and 1.5, or in the green section. Water pressure problems are common in boilers, especially for those which are old or have been in use for some time. 

 

Leaking Boiler 

If your Worcester boiler is leaking, make sure you deal with it as soon as possible as the longer it leaks, the greater the amount of damage it can create. This can be particularly dangerous if there are any exposed electrics near the leak. 

 

Boiler Lockout 

If your Worcester boiler is showing the code EA 227, this means the unit has locked out as a safety precaution. This shuts down the operations of the boiler to prevent any further damage being caused. There are a number of reasons for a boiler lockout, including incorrect pressure and blocked flue pipes. 

 

Banging Noises 

If your Worcester boiler is making noises, it will most likely be caused by kettling. This is caused by a drop in water pressure, limescale build-up or a faulty thermostat. The banging noise should be addressed as soon as possible, since if it is left unattended, it can cause wider issues. 

 

Overheating Boiler 

Your Worcester boiler may overheat due to a faulty pump or fan, a blocked condensate pipe or due to limescale. These causes can usually be quickly identified by a heating engineer.

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Why is my Worcester boiler not firing up?

There are many reasons why your Worcester boiler may not be firing up, but the most common reasons are due to gas supply, ignition or an inability to operate safely. 

 

If there is an insufficient gas supply, the ignition electrodes are faulty or the burner is blocked, your boiler will fail to fire up. 

 

Other reasons why your boiler may not be able to operate safely include frozen condensate pipes, clogged flue pipes or faulty fans. It will remain locked until the root issue is resolved. 

 

In a lot of cases, it’s best to have a Gas Safe engineer to fix the issue for you. 

 

How do I reset my Worcester Bosch boiler?

Most Worcester Bosch boilers are relatively straightforward to reset, and all you need to do is press and hold a button for 3-5 seconds. The reset button is typically located on the boiler control panel. You can refer to the boiler manual if you are struggling to figure out how to reset your boiler.

 

Resetting your Worcester boiler will not fix the fault that caused it to lock out in the first place, and you should only reset your boiler once the issue has been resolved. 

 

Why is my Worcester boiler firing but there is no hot water?

If your Worcester boiler is firing up but there is no hot water, there are a few potential issues that could be causing this. However, one of the most common issues is a faulty diverter valve. 

 

The diverter valve’s job is to control the flow of hot water and divert it to your water outlets and your central heating. However, the diverter valve can become worn, resulting in the valve only partially opening meaning the water flow is negatively affected. This results in cold or lukewarm water flowing, instead of hot water. 

 

You will need to call out a Gas Safe engineer to fix this issue as it could be causing other internal issues. 

 

How do I fix the pressure on my Worcester boiler?

Low water pressure is a sign that the water needs topping up in your Worcester boiler, or that you may have a leak. You will see the code 1017W if you have low water pressure.

 

When your boiler reaches below a certain pressure, it will lock out. To fix this, you will need to repressurise it by using the external filling loop. To find out more on understanding boiler pressure, read our dedicated guide.

 

Once you’ve corrected the pressure, reset your boiler following the steps previously outlined. If the issue still persists, you may have a leak and again will need to enlist the help of a professional heating engineer. 

 

Why is my Worcester boiler light flashing?

A flashing light on your Worcester boiler can indicate that connections need to be checked. 

 

A slow flashing on a Worcester boiler that goes on for two pulses indicates that you need to check the service mode switch as it is in the minimum position. 

 

Fast flashing will indicate that the code plug is blocked. To fix this, reset your boiler as this will restart your heating system. 

 

Sometimes flashing lights will indicate small issues that can be fixed at home. However, if you’re unsure about investigating yourself, it’s always a good idea to get an engineer to check for you.


How to adjust the flow temperature on a Worcester Bosch boiler

The process of adjusting the flow temperature can vary from model to model. In general, the control can be located on the control panel of each Worcester model. 

 

To adjust the flow temperature, simply adjust the thermostat on the boiler by turning the dial or using the digital display.


How do I find the error codes on my Worcester boiler?

Finding the error codes on your Worcester boiler is relatively straightforward. When an error occurs, the boiler’s control panel will show a specific code. This code is an indication of what the problem is. 

 

You can find the cause code by pressing the spanner or return button, which will display a three digit number, which is the specific error code. 


Worcester Bosch boiler error codes

There are a number of error codes that may show on your boiler. Listed below are some common codes which you may see:

 

  • Fan speed error: C6 215
  • Heat control module: 9A 362
  • No flame signal due to blockage or internal leak: EA 227
  • Blocked pump: A1 281 
  • Minimum burner load: EF 349
  • Flow temperature high: No code 212
  • Loss of ionisation: EA 229
  • Flow temperature too high: E5 218
  • Sensor too high: 2964 B
  • Low water pressure: 1017 W
  • Safety sensor code: 226
  • Internal error: F0 237
  • Potential control board problem: B7 257

 

As mentioned previously, each model will have its own variety of error codes as well, so it’s always a good idea to keep your user manual just in case an error code occurs which isn’t on our list.

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Baxi Boiler Troubleshooting

Baxi is a great boiler brand and it is trusted by many up and down the country. However, there may be times when your Baxi boiler isn’t acting up to scratch. In this guide, we’ll discuss common Baxi boiler issues, how to fix them and some common error codes.

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Do Baxi boilers have a warranty?

Yes, every new Baxi boiler comes with a warranty of 1 year as standard. However, depending on the model of your Baxi boiler, Baxi offers extended warranties ranging from 2 – 10 years. 

 

You can extend your Baxi boiler warranty by following the steps below:

 

  1. Either you or your Baxi boiler installer should register your warranty with Baxi within 30 days of the boiler being installed.

  2. Make sure your boiler is installed by a Gas Safe registered engineer who will complete a benchmark commissioning checklist.

  3. Have your boiler serviced once a year by a Gas Safe Engineer in line with Baxi’s instructions.

 

If you fail to meet the requirements as stated above, Baxi will revert your warranty to 12 months from the date of installation. 

 

Common Baxi boiler problems

Like all boilers, Baxi boilers can face a common boiler problem at some point in their lifetime. 

 

Low boiler pressure 

When looking at the pressure gauge on your Baxi boiler, the needle should be around 1.5. If the pressure drops below this, then the unit will need to repressurise. 

Most boilers, if not all, will gradually lose pressure over time; but if there is a sudden drop, this could be a sign of a leak. If you suspect there is a leak, turn off your water supply and contact our team for the assistance of a Gas Safe engineer.

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Frozen condensate pipe 

Seeing the error codes E133 or E28 means that your condensate pipe may be frozen. The condensate pipe transports pacific water away from the boiler. This usually runs outside into a drain, but because of its location, it does face the risk of freezing.

 

Water leaking 

There are a number of different causes for a leak, but its location will help you to determine the fault. The cause more often than not is a broken internal component, like a pump seal or pressure valve. If the leak is coming from the pressure valve, then your boiler’s pressure may be too high. If it comes from the pump seal, it may have become worn out and need replacing. 

 

If there is a leak, you should see the error codes H.02-.06.

 

Baxi boiler not firing up

There are some simple reasons for your Baxi boiler not firing up, and these are things that you can check yourself. 

 

Firstly, check the simple things such as if there is power to the boiler and if your thermostats and timers are on

 

Secondly, check if the dials on the boiler have been changed or switched down low or off. 

 

If you’re not seeing any error codes, then there could be an issue with the gas supply, ignition leads or a faulty gas valve. If you suspect this is the case, then it’s time to contact our Gas Safe engineers who will be able to repair the faulty parts. 

 

How do you reset a Baxi boiler?

In some circumstances, your boiler may lock out. This is identified on a Baxi boiler by a red lockout light. 

 

Most Baxi boilers have a simple reset button on the front panel. Once you’ve located this, press and hold the button for 3-5 seconds until the red light goes away or until it’s clear that the boiler has rebooted itself. 

 

Baxi boiler firing but there is no hot water

There are a number of different reasons why your Baxi boiler is firing up but there is no hot water. 

 

Pilot light not lit

 

*Please note that in modern boilers there is not usually a pilot light. If you have a pilot light on your boiler, it is an old model of boiler.

 

One of the main reasons could be because the pilot light isn’t lit. Sometimes the light fails to catch, resulting in a total failure of hot water. 

 

If this is the case, all you need to do is check your boiler’s manual to find out how to relight the pilot. This can vary for different models, but generally speaking, all you need to do is look through the pilot window and press the gas control knob fully inward and hold. You should repeat this until the pilot ignites. 

 

Faulty diverter valve  

A faulty diverter valve is potentially caused by natural system corrosion or metallic build-up over time, meaning the hot water is only being delivered to your radiators and not your taps. 

 

Besides from seeing a potential error code, there isn’t much you can do about this yourself. You should contact a heating engineer if you think this is the case. This way, you can be diagnosed properly and your diverter valve can be replaced if necessary. 

 

Frozen pipes 

As we’ve mentioned, Baxi boilers can suffer from frozen pipes. If the condensate pipe does freeze over, your boiler may shut down for safety reasons, resulting in no hot water at all. 

 

Thankfully, this is a quick fix at home and you can slowly melt away the frozen area by wrapping the pipe in cloth or by pouring the warm water over the top. You can use your kettle for this, but be sure to let the water cool down slightly. 

 

How do you fix the pressure on a Baxi boiler?

If your Baxi boiler is experiencing low water pressure (E118) don’t worry, this is something you can fix yourself using the following steps:

 

  1. Turn off your boiler 
  2. Locate your boiler’s Easy Fill permanent filling link. This will be beneath the boiler. 
  3. Pull the green lever down until the pressure gauge shows 1 to 1.5 bars of pressure, and then release the lever. Do not increase the pressure to above 1.5 bars as this can damage the boiler itself and the system.
  4. Use a cloth to catch any drops of water from the air break on the filling link. Don’t worry, a small amount of water is normal to appear.
  5. Check your central heating system and your radiators for any signs of water leaks.

 

If this doesn’t work, you can head over to our full guide on boiler pressure for other useful tips on how to repressurise your boiler.

 

Baxi boiler keeps locking

One of the main reasons your Baxi boiler keeps locking is due to overheating. The boiler will lock itself to preserve any internal components and further damage. 

 

Other reasons why your boiler may be causing lockouts include:

 

  • A faulty pump
  • Low/high water pressure 
  • System blockages
  • Heat exchanger blockages 
  • Fan problems

 

If any of the above occur, you will likely see an error code on the display screen. If you have tried to reset the boiler multiple times but you’re still experiencing lockouts you should call a heating engineer to come and inspect for bigger problems. 

 

Baxi boiler making loud noises

All boilers, including Baxi boilers, make a lot of noise. However, it’s not so easy to tell when a noise isn’t quite right. Most loud noises are described as gurgling, vibrating or banging. If you are hearing any of these noises coming from your Baxi boiler, you will likely need a visit from an engineer. 

 

A buildup of limescale, can also create a whistling noise known as “kettling”. This can be cleaned away by engineers who will flush the system out and remove the limescale.

 

Other noises can be caused by air in the system, which could be fixed by bleeding your radiators. 

 

How do you find the error codes on a Baxi boiler?

If your Baxi boiler develops a problem, the boiler will show an error code on the display screen to help you identify the issue. 

 

Each boiler has their own set of codes, so make sure you have your manufacturers guide handy, or you know the model number so you can do a quick Google search.

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Error code  Possible fault 
H.01-.00 Temporary fault. Temporary loss of communication between gas valve and boiler board. 
H.01-.05 Temporary fault. Maximum difference between the flow and return temperature exceeded. 
H.01-.08 Temporary fault. Flow temperature increasing too fast in heating mode. Non-existent or insufficient circulation. 
H.01-.14 Temporary fault. Maximum flow temperature valve exceeded. Non-existent or insufficient circulation.
H.01-.18 Temporary fault. No circulation of water. Non-existent or insufficient circulation.
H.01-.21 Temporary fault. Flow temperature increasing too fast in DHW mode. Non-existent or insufficient circulation.
H.02-.03 Temporary fault. Incorrect configuration settings C1/C2.
H.02 – .04 Temporary fault. Parameter error. Incorrect parameters.
H.02 – .06 Temporary fault. System water pressure. Water leak on boiler. Water leak on system.
H.03 -.00 Temporary fault. Communication error with NTC flue sensor. Sensor not, or badly connected. Bad connection. Sensor fault.
H.03 -.01 Temporary fault. Communication error with the HMI PCB. HMI not connected.
H.03 -.02 Temporary fault. No flame during operation. No ionisation current.

 

Error code  Possible fault 
E.00 – .04 Permanent fault. Return temperature sensor open-circuit. Sensor not or badly connected. Bad connection. Sensor fault.
E.00 – .05 Permanent fault. Return temperature sensor open-circuit. Sensor not or badly connected. Bad connection. Sensor fault.
E.01 – .02 Permanent fault. Temperature measured by return sensor greater than flow sensor. Bad connection. Sensor fault. Sensor not or badly connected.
E.01 – .04 Permanent fault. Loss of flame detected 5 times in 24 hours (With burner on). No ionisation current.
E.01 – .11 Permanent fault requiring reset. Incorrect fan speed. External draught over the boiler. Defective gas/air unit.
E.01 – .12 Permanent fault requiring reset. Temperature measured by return sensor greater than flow temperature.
E.01 – .17 Permanent fault requiring reset. No circulation. Sensor not or badly connected. Sensor fault.
E.01 – .20 Permanent fault. Maximum flue gas temperature value reached (>140 Deg C). No circulation. Sensor fault.
E.02 – .00 Permanent fault. Boiler reset in progress. Reset button has been pressed.
E.02 – .07 No or low system water pressure. Low system pressure (less than 0.5bar) boiler will not function.
E.02 – .16 Permanent fault. On board CSU time-out. Check PCB for damage.
E.02 – .17 Permanent fault. Permanent loss of communication between gas valve and boiler PCB. Fault in air/gas unit. Loose connection to gas valve.
E.02 – .19 Permanent fault. Jumper 1 changed. Check position of jumper 1.
E.02 – .20 Permanent fault. Jumper 2 changed. Check position of jumper 2.
E.02 – .21 Permanent fault. Jumper 3 changed. Check position of jumper 3.
E.02 – .47 Permanent fault. Connection to external device unsuccessful. Check wiring to external devices.
E.02 – .48 Permanent fault. Configuration to external devices unsuccessful. Check pairing to external.
E.04 – .00 Permanent fault. Gas valve fault. Gas valve not detected.
E.04 – .01 Permanent fault. Flow temperature sensor short-circuited. Sensor not or badly connected. Bad connection. Sensor fault.
E.04 – .02 Permanent fault. Flow temperature sensor open-circuited. Sensor not or badly connected. Bad connection. Sensor fault.
E.04 – .03 Permanent fault. Critical flow temperature reached. Non-existent or insufficient circulation.
E.04 – .04 Permanent fault. Flue temperature sensor short-circuited. Sensor not or badly connected. Bad connection. Sensor fault.
E.04 – .05 Permanent fault. Flue temperature sensor open-circuited. Sensor not or badly connected. Bad connection. Sensor fault.
E.04 – .06 Permanent fault. Critical flue gas temperature value reached. No circulation. Sensor fault.
E.04 – .08 Permanent fault. Maximum safe temperature value reached. (Safety thermostat open-circuited). No circulation. Sensor not or badly connected. Bad connection. Sensor fault.
E.04 – .10 Failure to light (could be a gas supply issue).
E.04 – .12 Permanent fault. False flame signal. Short-term fluctuation of the mains. Ionisation current present even though there is no flame. The burner remains very hot (CO2 too high). Defective gas/air unit.
E.04 – .13 Permanent fault. Fan rotor blocked. Fan seized. Wiring to fan damaged.
E.04 – .17 Permanent fault. Problem with gas valve. Defective gas/air unit.

 

Error code Possible fault 
E20 Central heating NTC fault
E28 Flue NTC fault, air pressure switch fault, blocked flue, blocked condensate or wiring fault. 
E50 Hot water NTC fault
E110 E110 safety thermostat operated
E119 Water pressure switch not operated
E125 Circulation fault (primary circuit)
E128 Frequent flame failure (12 times).
E130 Flue NTC operated
E133 Interruption of gas supply or flame failure
E160 Fan or fan wiring Fault
E193 Pre-circulation fault
E270 Circulation fault (dry fire).
E317 Wrong power supply electrical frequency (Hz).
E384 False flame.
E430 Water pressure temporary test.

 

Common Baxi boiler fault lights

 

As well as error codes, your Baxi boiler may display fault lights. 

 

Error light Possible fault
1 flash green Maximum flow temperature exceeded. Flow temperature rise rate is too high. Excessive difference between, flow and return temperature
2 flashes green BL terminals on User Interaction. Controller are open circuit
3 flashes green No flame detected during operation
4 flashes green Bad connection or wiring fault. Internal communication fault
5 flashes green Parameter error or faulty PU. Configuration error or PCB fault
6 flashes green Possible fault Internal fault in combustion control unit
1 flash red Bad connection to flow or return temperature sensor
2 flash red Over-temperature thermostat on heat exchanger activated. No water flow through the heat exchanger. PCB over-temperature condition. Flue fault resulting in. Recirculation or activation of air pressure switch (if fitted)
3 flash red No ignition. No flame detected following ignition. False flame signal detected
4 flash red Fan calibration error. Fan failure 
5 flash red Bad connection to PU. Parameter error or faulty PU
6 flashes red Possible fault. Bad connection or wiring fault. Parameter error

 

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How to Prepare your Boiler for Winter

With winter just around the corner, it'll soon be the time again when we rely on our boilers to keep us warm and cosy as temperatures start to drop. To make sure our boilers and central heating systems don’t fail, there are a few things you can do to ensure everything is running as it should be.

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Why do you need to prep your boiler for winter?

Preparing your boiler for winter, and in turn keeping it healthy, will help to keep your home safe and warm as the colder temperatures approach. Preparing your boiler for winter also gives you the chance to check everything is working correctly and safely. 

 

Not only this, but your boiler will also make for a more cost effective heating system as it should be running efficiently and effectively. 

 

How to prepare your boiler for winter

Preparing your boiler for winter may not be one of the first things on your seasonal to-do list, but it is an important job to do to ensure you have a lovely and warm home this winter. 

 

We recommend completing the following steps around the start to mid autumn to ensure you’re ready for winter:

 

Check the boiler pressure 

Low boiler pressure is a sign of a loss of efficiency. If your boiler has lost some pressure, don’t worry, you can easily top it back up. Turn on your kitchen taps and wait until the pressure reaches 1.5 bars, maximum. The pressure should adjust either way when you turn your heating on. 

 

If you’re experiencing high water pressure, we recommend getting in touch with our Gas Safe heating engineers who can inspect the problem for you. 

 

Bleed your radiators 

Bleeding your radiators means replacing the air with water and making sure the system is working as it should. Make sure your radiators are hot at the top and bottom, and check for any areas with cold spots. 

 

Sludge can build-up in radiators, causing them to be cold at the bottom. If this is the case, we recommend speaking to one of our team as cleaning radiators can be a tricky job. 

 

Have a boiler service

To ensure your boiler is properly functioning, providing plenty of hot water and warms your home, it is vital you have your boiler serviced annually. At Lacey Plumbing & Heating, we can provide you with annual boiler service plans, ensuring your boiler is working in excellent condition all year round.

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What to do before turning the boiler on in winter

One of the first things you should do before turning your boiler on is checking if your thermostats are in the right place. If they’re not located effectively, your central heating may kick in at the wrong time, which will waste energy and increase your bills. Make sure they’re positioned away from draughts and windows so they can accurately gauge the right temperature. 

 

If you think it’s necessary, you could also get a power flush to clean your central heating system. If your heating system is dirty and contains sludge, this can cause your boiler to work much harder than it needs to be. Removing all the sludge and grime with a power flush will help your boiler to work properly, ensuring it isn’t overworked or using too much energy. 

 

What temperature should you set your boiler to in winter?

We all want to be cosy and warm in the winter, but unfortunately there is no universal temperature that will be perfect for all of us. 

 

However, 65°C is a good temperature to go for if you’re looking for a balance of warmth and efficiency. Setting it a few degrees higher won’t cause too much of a difference cost wise, but try not to set it too high, as this can overwork your boiler. Try not to set it any lower than 65°C. Lower temperatures can cause bacteria to grow in the water, such as Legionella.

 

How do you prepare central heating for winter?

Once you’ve prepared your boiler, it’s a good idea to test your central heating one or two times before the nights get cold. This is a good way to tell if something is functioning as it should be, whether that’s your actual boiler or other parts of the heating system. 

 

This will also give you the chance to look for any error codes that may appear on the display screen. Some issues that may be shown will include temperature, pressure levels and any other problems with the boiler. If you do happen to see any error codes, make sure you review your boilers manual so you can determine what the issue is. 

 

If you don’t think your heating is warm enough, this could be a tell-tale sign that something is wrong with the boiler and/or heating system. 

 

Top tips for preparing your boiler for winter

Insulate your pipes 

Standing water can freeze in your pipes in the colder months. When water is frozen, it expands, which can cause your pipes to burst. If your boiler pipe freezes, it can cause your boiler to completely stop working. 

 

One of the best methods to prevent pipes from freezing is by insulating them. Ideally, you should be insulating any pipes that are outside or in cold areas of the home like garages or utility rooms. 

 

Check your carbon monoxide alarm 

One thing you may forget to look at is your carbon monoxide alarm. Most alarms will have a test button on the back of them that you can press to test if the alarm is loud enough and still working. If you press the test button and nothing happens, you will need to replace the whole alarm. 

 

It is vital that you have a working carbon monoxide detector, as they can save lives. Thankfully, they cost as little as £15-25. 

 

How to minimise fuel costs over winter

As well as getting your boiler and central heating ready for winter, there are some other things you can do yourself to minimise your fuel costs this winter.

 

These include:

 

  • Keeping the boiler thermostat at one temperature, ideally of which is a comfortable heat and energy efficient.
  • Keeping curtains open during the day to let sunlight in your home and closing them at night to keep the heat in.
  • Using things like draught excluders to prevent cold air from entering your home.
  • Keeping large items away from radiators so they don’t block/absorb the heat.
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How Long Should a New Boiler Installation Take?

There are a number of variables that could affect how long it takes to install a new boiler, including the boiler type, location, existing infrastructure and more. Find out how long it’d take in your own scenario.

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How Long Should a New Boiler Installation Take?

A question that is often asked is: how long does it take to fit a new boiler in your home? While it may seem like there is a straightforward answer, there are a few factors that will affect how long it takes to fit a new boiler. 

What does a new boiler installation involve?

Before your new boiler is even installed, you can expect to have a visit from a Gas Safe Engineer to inspect the area in which the boiler is located and discuss with you what boiler setup will work best. 

On the day of the installation, the engineer will ensure your space stays clean by covering up nearby surfaces. If you are having your old boiler replaced, it will first be cut off from the gas and water supply. 

Before connecting the new boiler, your central heating engineer will flush out your central heating system to remove most of the debris inside. Next, they will adjust the pipework, potentially reconfiguring it to minimise the heat loss to your boiler.

Finally, your engineer will install your boiler at the location you agreed on, connecting it to the water outlets, the mains supply and radiators. If necessary, they will also fit the water tank too. 

 

How long does it take to install a new combi boiler?

A combi boiler doesn’t take too long to install, and it will usually be completed within 4 to 6 hours. 

However, if you wish to replace an older, different boiler with a new combi boiler, this may take 1 to 2 days to complete since there is a lot more work involved to change a conventional system to a combi system.

 

How long does it take to install a new system boiler?

Depending on what type of boiler you have before the new system boiler, it can take up to 2 days to install a new system boiler. 

It can be quicker than 2 days; for example, if you already have a system boiler it will take around 1 day, but heating engineers may need to take a considerable amount of time to do some mild structural work or pipework. 

 

How long does it take to convert a conventional boiler to a combi boiler?

Converting a conventional boiler to a combi boiler may take 2 to 3 days to complete since the new combi boiler will require different electrics and plumbing.

Time will need to be spent removing the unnecessary tanks and cylinders, stripping away any extra pipework and tidying up afterwards.

 

How long does it take to move a boiler to a new location?

The time it takes to move a boiler to a new location depends on where it is being moved to. It would take at least 2 days for a simple move because of all the pipework that needs re-running and the position of the new flue. 

Not only does it involve changing the way in which the pipes flow, but if you are having a new boiler installed at the same time, it will also involve changing the electrics and plumbing to suit the needs of the new boiler type. 

 

How long does it take to install a boiler with a new fuel type?

If you’re getting a new boiler but changing the fuel type, it can take around 2 to 3 days to complete since there will be extra plumbing and electrical work to be done. 

For example, if you’re switching from a gas boiler to a new electric boiler but keeping it in the same position, time will be added on in the installation process. You may even need to have some upgrades to your electrics which would need to be carried out by a qualified electrician. You should get this assessed before you go ahead and purchase a new electric boiler.

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What factors affect how long it takes to install a new boiler?

There are a number of variables that could affect how long it takes to install a new boiler:

Gas safe regulations not met 

A common issue that is found by an engineer could be in relation to your gas supply pipe. Many boilers that are 15 years or older do not meet the current requirements of having a 22mm thick gas supply pipe. 

If this is the case, your engineer will have to fit a new 22mm gas supply pipe, since it is a legal requirement. This may take around half a day to complete.

 

Power flushing or chemical flushing 

This is essentially a process that will flush out unwanted deposits built up within your radiators and heating system. This buildup of limescale, rust and sludge can cause damage to your heating system, making it much more prone to breakdowns. 

Time wise, this may add on another 2 to 4 hours in the installation process, depending on the size of your house. 

radiator

Smart thermostat installation 

Smart thermostats are growing in population thanks to how much they help homeowners to save on their energy bills. 

They are affordable and don’t take too long to install, only adding an extra hour or so onto the installation process. 

 

When is the best time to have a new boiler installed?

Ideally, you should get your boiler installed in the spring and summer months since you are less likely to be reliant on your central heating. 

The last thing you want is to be without your boiler in the cold winter months, which is why planning ahead is a must. 

If you’re looking to upgrade your current boiler, move its location or change your boiler type completely, contact our team at Lacey Plumbing & Heating to see how we can help you. 

We will take the time to assess what you want from your boiler and provide you with the best solutions possible.

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How Do Smart Thermostats Work with a Combi Boiler?

When your boiler is leaking water, you need to take action quickly. Here’s what could be causing these leaks and how you might be able to fix them.

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Smart thermostats can be extremely beneficial when it comes to creating an energy efficient and fully customised home heating environment. 

Combining a smart thermostat with a combi boiler is a great way to use your boiler to its full potential, whenever and wherever you are.

What are smart thermostats?

Smart thermostats allow you to connect your heating system to the internet, which means you can change the temperature or turn your heating off using your smartphone when you’re out.

They work exactly the same as a regular thermostat; however, they provide you with more accessible and direct control over your heating.

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Do you need to have a smart thermostat for a combi boiler?

If you have a combi boiler that heats the water immediately, then you don’t necessarily need a smart thermostat; however, they do provide great benefits that a regular thermostat can’t provide. 

When you have a smart thermostat connected to a combi boiler, you have the ability to adjust and turn the boiler on/off when you’re away from home. 

 

How does a smart thermostat connect to a combi boiler?

Most smart thermostats are made up of 3 components: a hub, a receiver and the smart thermostat itself.

The hub plugs into your broadband router and the receiver is wired up to the boiler. This is what connects your boiler to the internet so it can be controlled anywhere through the smart thermostat and its corresponding mobile apps. 

 

How does a smart thermostat work with a combi boiler?

Smart thermostats work by sensing your home’s ambient temperature and then sending a signal to your combi boiler to make sure the temperature changes in accordance to your pre-set schedule. 

If a smart thermostat senses that the room’s temperature is rising above the set limit, it will send a signal to your combi boiler to lower the temperature. 

Advanced smart thermostats also have the capabilities to learn what temperatures you like at different times of the day based on when you’re at home or away. The device then signals the combi boiler when the central heating is ready to be turned on or off. 

 

Can you use any wireless thermostat with a combi boiler?

In most cases, any wireless thermostat is compatible with most modern boilers, such as combi boilers. 

However, some boiler manufacturers have their own wireless thermostat systems that are specifically made to match the boiler and can deliver far greater efficiency than other thermostats. 

 

Can you fit a smart thermostat to a boiler yourself?

Yes, unlike a smart meter, you can fit a smart thermostat by yourself. Below is a basic guide on how to fit a smart thermostat, however, you will likely have installation instructions that come with your new smart thermostat. 

  1. Turn off the power – You should always turn off the electricity before doing any DIY project that involves electricity. 
  2. Open the old thermostat – Take off the front face of your thermostat unit. You may require a screwdriver for this. 
  3. Label the wires – Label the wires from your old thermostat. You can do this using letters, numbers or even simply taking a picture. 
  4. Take the old thermostat off the wall – Unscrew the old thermostat and carefully take it off the wall. Make sure not to pull the wires with you. 
  5. Hang the new thermostat – Using a level, hang the new thermostat onto the wall and screw it in. 
  6. Attach the wires – Match each wire to its corresponding terminal and connect them. Pull slightly on each wire to ensure they are secured.
  7. Turn on the electricity – Turn the power back on and check if there is a start-up on the screen of the thermostat. If not, turn the electricity back off and check the wiring is correct.

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Why should you use a smart thermostat for your combi boiler?

Control your heating remotely 

One of the most significant reasons as to why you should use a smart thermostat with your combi boiler is because it provides you with the ability to control them remotely. As long as you have an internet connection, you will be able to control your heating from anywhere. 

This gives you the convenience of being able to turn the heating off until it’s actually needed, and also means you can turn it on in advance as you’re heading home.

 

Multi-user and multi-location access 

Another great feature of smart thermostats is that multiple users can have the app installed on their mobile device, allowing each individual to control the central heating as they require. 

If you spend your time between different locations, such as a family home and a holiday home, each property that is equipped with a smart thermostat can be conveniently controlled from their dedicated app. 

 

Learning capabilities 

In the first few weeks after your smart thermostat is installed, it will begin to learn your heating behaviours. This means that when it is in use, the device is analysing how long it takes to heat up your home in different scenarios.

With this information, smart heating systems can instruct the combi boiler on the most efficient times and temperature from which to activate the heating process.

Can smart thermostats help you to save money?

Yes, while the primary function of a smart thermostat is to give you control over your heating system, it also provides you with insights on how and when you’re consuming energy.

By monitoring this data, it is possible to make changes to your daily energy consumption in order to reduce your energy bills and save money.

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Why does my boiler not respond to a wireless thermostat?

If your boiler stops responding to your wireless thermostat, it’s worth checking the batteries in the thermostat. 

There could also be problems with the wiring or damage to the thermostat component. If this is the case, you may need to unscrew the face of the thermostat and take a look inside. 

 

What happens to my smart thermostat if my internet goes down?

In many cases, your smart thermostat will still work if the internet goes down and it will work with your programmed settings. However, you will not be able to use the app to remotely change the temperature. 

 

Do I need more than one smart thermostat in my home?

While it isn’t necessary to have multiple smart thermostats in your home, it does give you the control to heat different parts of your home differently. This is known as multi-zone heating.

This can be handy when you spend more time in a certain room at night compared to the morning, and vice versa. 

 

Do smart thermostats stop your pipes from freezing?

Yes, all smart thermostats have a safety or holiday mode, in which your home will only be heated if the temperature drops below a safe limit which for example, will stop your pipes from freezing. 

 

Do smart thermostats work with other home devices?

Like other smart home devices, your smart thermostat can also be controlled with voice controls like Alexa and Google Home. 

 

Can you connect a smart thermostat to any type of boiler?

Smart thermostats will typically work with most boilers. Be sure to check with the thermostat manufacturers compatible boilers before you commit to buying one.

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Boiler Leaking Water?: Here’s What to Do

When your boiler is leaking water, you need to take action quickly. Here’s what could be causing these leaks and how you might be able to fix them.

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When your boiler is leaking water, you need to take action quickly. Here’s what could be causing these leaks and how you might be able to fix them.

Can I still use my boiler if it’s leaking?

No, you should not use your boiler if it’s leaking. Although a leaking boiler isn’t overtly dangerous, it could be a boiler safety issue.

Continuing to use your boiler while its leaking could cause greater damage to the boiler and its connecting pipework. 

 

Should I turn the water off if my boiler is leaking?

Yes, if you notice a leak coming from your boiler, you should turn the water off as soon as possible to prevent any chances of your electric short circuiting. 

You should also clean up any water from the leak spot in order to prevent any further damage to the surrounding area.

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Will my boiler stop leaking if I turn it off?

Yes, a leaking boiler will eventually stop leaking once it is turned off. Keeping the boiler on means it will try to refill itself with any remaining water in the heating system, so turning it off will prevent this from happening.

 

How do I know if my boiler is leaking water?

One of the first signs that your boiler may be leaking water is that it cuts out due to low pressure. Even after you top it up, you may notice that the pressure is still low. 

Another way you will be able to tell is if there are any actual pools of water by the boiler, or visible signs of watermarks. You may be able to see water running down the exterior of the connecting pipes, and sometimes there may be damp, mould or staining near the boiler. Water leaks can even cause warped skirting boards. 

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Common reasons why a boiler may be leaking

Below are some of the most common reasons why your boiler may be leaking:

 

High water pressure 

Too little or too much water pressure can cause problems. One of the reasons why your boiler may be leaking is due to the fact that your boiler pressure is too high. 

You will be able to tell if the pressure is too high by checking the gauge on the front. If this is the case, it is likely that your boiler is trying to release some of this pressure. 

The valve needle on the gauge should be between 1 and 1.5, which is in the green zone. If it is any higher than this, in the red zone, you may need to bleed your radiators to relieve some of the pressure. 

 

Corrosion in the system 

Corrosion can be a problem in older boiler units as it causes rust and other debris to build up within your pipework. 

This corrosion can break down the rubber seals on the joint of two connecting pipes, which is where water may leak through. However, if the corrosion is widespread, it can affect the boiler itself which is what causes the leaks. If this is the case, you may need to have your boiler replaced. 

 

Faulty heat exchanger 

The heat exchanger is the element that allows your boiler to heat cold water. Unfortunately, a leak can be a sign that the heat exchanger is faulty and starting to decay. 

This isn’t a problem that you will be able to see and visibly diagnose yourself, as it involves taking off the boiler cover and looking inside.


Pin hole or split on an internal boiler component

Sometimes your boiler may develop a pinhole in one of the parts. It is common in some of the older boiler models. This will cause a fine spray of water, which may only become noticeable when you see a small drip on the left or right hand side. 

In this case, you need to call a Heating Engineer to diagnose the problem. The risk is that the fine spray hits the printed circuit board inside your boiler and blows this element, which is an expensive part to replace. 

 

How to fix a boiler leak

As we’ve mentioned, the first thing you should check is the pressure gauge on your boiler. This can be an easy fix by simply bleeding your radiators. 

If the pressure isn’t the problem, you should check for any leaks by dabbing a cloth on any visible pipe fittings or joints. To check, dab the area dry and wait to see if any water reappears. If it does, you can try tightening the joint with just a quarter turn of a spanner. 

If this still fails and you cannot determine the issue yourself, you should call a qualified Gas Safe heating engineer. 

At Lacey Plumbing & Heating, our engineers can be out quickly to help diagnose what the problem is. Our engineers will give impartial advice on the best course of action, finding the quickest solution to fixing your boiler

 

How can I prevent my boiler from leaking?

The best way to prevent your boiler from leaking is by having it serviced annually. Thorough boiler inspections can help to ensure that your boiler will be working as it should be, while diagnostic checks establish if there are any minor problems with the boiler. 

We offer simple, cost effective annual boiler service plans that are available for all your heating and plumbing needs.

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Smart TRV’s: Do you need them?

Smart Thermostatic Radiator Valves can result in significant savings on your heating bills, and they are a great alternative to smart thermostats if you want to have room-by-room temperature control.

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Smart Thermostatic Radiator Valves can result in significant savings on your heating bills, and they are a great alternative to smart thermostats if you want to have room-by-room temperature control.

What are smart Thermostatic Radiator Valves?

Smart Thermostatic Radiator Valves (TRV) work in the same way as regular TRVs, in which they work by detecting the temperature of the room and turning the radiator on/off depending on whether the room needs heating up or not. 

Smart TRVs are installed onto your radiators and they allow you to set the temperature in individual rooms. This makes it easy to keep your rooms at a comfortable and consistent temperature.

radiator

Is there a difference between smart TRVs and TRVs?

The function of TRVs and smart TRVs are the same, however smart TRVs have their own separate advantages. 

Smart TRVS allow you to:

  • Control the temperature of your room through an app
  • Create heating schedules from them through the app
  • Use energy saving features, such as open window detection, to help you waste less energy

 

How do smart radiator valves work?

Smart TRVs work by measuring a room’s temperature through integrated temperature sensors. They control the flow of hot water into a radiator, meaning that once the room has reached the desired temperature, the flow of hot water will be cut. 

Unlike normal TRVs, smart TRVs have their own temperature setting which you can adjust from your phone. This means you can choose the exact temperature for the different rooms in your home, whether you’re in or not.

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The pros and cons of smart TRVs

Saves money 

Smart TRVs can save you money because they allow you to control your house’s temperature room by room. If you have a room which isn’t particularly used that often, such as a guest room, you can install a smart TRV specifically in that room so the radiator comes on less. 

While you can do this with a regular TRV, smart TRVs allow you to change the heat settings in rooms, like a guest room, whenever and wherever you are thanks to the use of apps. 

 

They can be integrated with smart thermostats 

Combining smart thermostats with smart TRVs is when your heating system can really be used to its full potential. Smart thermostats can recognise your schedules and routines, and can be used in conjunction with smart TRVs for a fully customisable heating system.

This way, your thermostat could learn that people spend time in certain rooms during the morning and other rooms during the evening, and so adjust the heating times accordingly.

 

Higher upfront costs 

Due to the higher tech nature of smart TRVs, they generally come with a higher upfront cost than regular TRVs. 

However, despite saying this, the savings you can make in the long run will likely make up for the initial purchase costs. 

 

They need a power source 

While this is only a minor con, smart TRVs do need a power source to operate. Usually they only require a few batteries, however, they do add to the list of household items that need to have their batteries replaced. 

Be mindful to keep on top of replacing the batteries, as they will turn into regular non-smart valves as soon as the batteries die. 

 

Do you need to have smart TRVs?

While you don’t specifically need to have smart TRVs, they do generally give you much more customisation around your home’s heating than regular TRVs. 

You can do quite a similar job with regular TRVs, except you will need to manually and separately change the desired threshold point in each room. 

If you are looking for a way to easily change your heating thresholds throughout different rooms, have a heating system that matches your routines and one which you can control from anywhere, then smart TRVs will likely be a worthwhile investment for you.

 

Do smart thermostatic radiator valves save money?

Yes, in fact, smart TRVs can save you up to 30% on your heating bills by not heating in spaces which aren’t in use, or in frequent use. 

Since you can choose the specific temperatures of each room, you can easily choose which rooms have lower temperatures to reach. This can save you a significant amount on your heating bills as you won’t be heating empty rooms that don’t need it.

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Do you Need a Water Tank with a Combi Boiler?

Should you have a water tank with your combi boiler, and what is the most cost effective heating system based on your household usage? We’ll guide you through combi boilers and water tanks.

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One of the many benefits of a combi boiler is that you don’t need separate water tanks or cylinders. Not only could these boilers save you money, but they could also save you a huge amount of space in your home too.

What is a combi boiler system?

A combi boiler system supplies hot water directly to your taps and radiators without any need for a storage tank. 

They are high efficiency water heaters and a central heating system in one compact unit, meaning there is no need for a hot water storage cylinder.

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What is a water cylinder?

A hot water cylinder is a well insulated tank that stores water after it has been heated. The water is heated through your boiler system and is then stored at temperature in the water cylinder, ready for use whenever you need it. 

Storing hot water this way means there’s no need to run the heating system constantly, which can result in lower bills without having to put up with cold water. 

 

Do combi boilers store hot water?

Combi boilers heat water directly from the mains when a tap is turned on, which means it does not need to store water in the same way a boiler with a water cylinder does. This allows for a high volume of hot water consumption.

 

Do you need a water tank with a combi boiler?

No, you do not need a water tank with a combi boiler since this type of boiler does not store the water. 

Since the water is taken directly from the mains and then heated, there is no purpose for a water tank.

 

Does a combi boiler need a tank in the loft?

No, combi boilers do not need to have a water tank in your loft since the water comes from the mains, so there is no need to store water in the same way you would have to with a system boiler. 

 

Does a combi boiler replace a water tank?

Yes, combi boilers act as both a water heater and central heating system, which is why there is no need for a water tank. Combi boilers don’t actually hold the water, but instead heat the water from the main immediately for use in taps and radiators.

If you currently have a system boiler that requires a water tank, you could save a lot of space and money by switching to a combi boiler.

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Can you store the water heated by a combi boiler?

Storage combi boilers provide the same benefits as a normal combi boiler, except they also come with a built-in small store of hot water. The Worcester Bosch HighFlow 440 CDi floor standing boiler is an example of this type of boiler. 

It is a great solution if your home has more than one bathroom, and is usually fitted in larger homes.

Storage combi boilers have many advantages including:

  • There is no a hot water cylinder
  • There is no tank in the loft, meaning less pipework
  • No huge delays in domestic hot water thanks to the integrated hot water storage
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Where Is My Stopcock?

A stopcock is a type of valve that's used to control the flow of water in your home. Ideally, you should know where your stopcock is located in your home in case of a plumbing emergency.

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What is a stopcock?

A stopcock, sometimes referred to as a water mains tap, is a tap that controls the mains water supply coming into your house. 

You should really know where your stopcock is located in your home, just in case you need to turn your water off to do maintenance or if you have a plumbing emergency. 

 

What does a stopcock look like?

A stopcock looks like a tap but without a spout. It sits between two lengths of pipe, acting like a connector. This allows the stopcock to block the flow of water when it’s closed. 

Depending on your home, the stopcock will sometimes be coloured red, and it will usually either have a typical T-shaped handle, be wheel shaped or look like a lever. 

 

Do all homes have a stopcock?

All homes should have a stopcock, and it is a legal requirement to have at least one stopcock at your home either externally or internally. 

 

Does every house have an outside stopcock?

While every house should have a stopcock inside, it isn’t guaranteed that you’ll have one outside as well, especially if your property is old.

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Types of stop taps

Your stopcock in your home will either be located internally or externally. 

 

Internal stopcocks 

Internal stopcocks can be tricky to locate, especially in properties which have been renovated as they often get moved or covered over. 

The most common place for a stopcock is under the sink, but if it’s not there, you should check:

  • The airing cupboard
  • The bathroom
  • Cupboards under the stairs, and
  • Utility cupboards. 

 

In older buildings, the stopcock may be located under the floorboards by the front door.

 

External stopcocks

External stopcocks are often located under a cover on the road or path outside the boundary of your property. 

If your house is older, or you share a supply with your neighbour, you might find it at the end of your road. 

If you’re on a shared supply, remember that turning off the stopcock will result in the water being turned off for everyone connected to that supply. 

 

How to locate your stopcock

Depending on the age of your property, you are likely to have two stopcocks. 

You will find one inside your home as close as possible to the point where the cold water supply enters your property. This is usually under the kitchen sink or in a downstairs bathroom. 

 

Where is my external water stopcock?

Your external stopcock will be located outside the boundary of your home, and it will be the responsibility of your water supplier to fix it if there’s a leak. 

The external stopcock will usually be marked by a metal cover, stamped with the word ‘stopcock’ or a ‘W’. 

 

Where is the stopcock in a flat?

If you live in a block of flats, your stopcock might be located in a communal corridor with the other flats stopcocks. 

If you have the plans for your property, the stopcock will usually be marked as ‘SC’. 

 

What to do if you can’t find your stopcock

If you can’t find your stopcock, it may be a good idea to ask your neighbour where theirs is, especially if you live in an older terraced house or flat. In older properties, they are often located in similar places, under the floorboards by the front door. 

If you’re still unsure, it might be a good idea to call your water supplier for assistance. 

In the case of a water emergency, it is vital you call professional help as soon as possible. If you can’t locate your stopcock, you can contact our emergency plumbers who will locate your stopcock and resolve the issue as quickly as possible. 

Issues that require a plumber can happen more than you think, and we understand the need for quick and effective fixes to prevent further problems. 

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Why is it important to know where your stopcock is?

If your home has frozen pipes or a leak, you will need to turn off the water supply as soon as possible to minimise any damage. 

Any delay in turning off your stopcock can have a huge impact on your home if there is water entering your property. 

Stopcocks can seize up, leak or stop working, so it’s important to check yours is functioning properly and fix any issues before disaster strikes. 

 

How to fix a leaking stopcock

If you find a leak from your stopcock and you feel confident enough to fix it yourself, follow the steps below. 

 

Tighten the compression nut 

Once you’ve located where your stopcock is, check to see where the water is leaking from. If water appears to be leaking from the compression nuts, try tightening the nut on the body of the stopcock by using an adjustable wrench. 

Be careful not to overtighten the stopcock, as this will restrict your ability to open and close it. 

 

Replace the gland packing  

If tightening the compression nut fails to stop the leak, you’ll need to inspect and replace the gland packing. 

Before you start, it’s worth purchasing some packing glands from your local DIY store. To start, turn off the water supply and then locate and unscrew the gland nut. Once it’s done, you can remove the old packing with a sharp object. 

Insert the new packing, and then return the gland nut to its original position. Once you’re confident the gland nut is on tight, turn your water supply back on by opening the stopcock. 

If you have any questions or need help locating your stopcock, don’t wait until there is an emergency, get in touch with our friendly and professional team for help.

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How to Stop Radiators Whistling

When your radiator is making noises, it can become extremely annoying. But did you know that the noises it makes could be a sign that your system isn’t running as it should be?

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Why are my radiators whistling?

If your radiators are whistling, it is likely one of three things that could be causing it:

  • The water flow rate is too high: This is not something you can fix on your own, but you can try to turn the valve fully on to the highest setting to see if this fixes the problem. 
  • There is a limescale build-up: If you live in a hard water area, you will likely have a limescale build-up in your radiators. Limescale will usually build up in hotspots which will eventually lead to overheating.
  • The drain valve is open: The whistling noise could be caused by a drain valve being open. You can try turning the cap, and if it is open this can stop any whistling coming from your radiator.
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What does it mean when my radiator makes noises?

Sometimes, your radiator makes noises simply because the pipes are expanding from the heat of the water being forced through the pipes, which is completely normal and safe. 

However, there may be times when your radiator is making noises that will indicate something is wrong with it. The type of noise you hear will typically inform you whether or not the issue is serious. 

 

Are noisy radiators dangerous?

Noisy radiators aren’t usually anything to worry about, and they are usually easily fixed. 

However, if your radiator is making noises, it is usually a sign that your system isn’t running as efficiently as it could be. 

Since keeping your heating system energy efficient is one of the best ways to reduce your winter heating costs, it is always worth getting your noisy radiator checked over by a professional. 

 

What to do when your radiator is making noise?

If you can identify what type of noise your radiator is making, you will then be able to establish how to stop it. 

 

Clicking noises 

Clicking noises from your radiator is most likely caused by expansion of the metal after host water is flushed through it, and it is quite common. Similarly, when the radiator cools down, the metal will contract as the hot water cools. 

How to fix

It’s likely that you will hear these clicking noises when you first turn your heating on, but it doesn’t mean that your radiators are in danger of being destroyed. There is no need to worry about these noises unless your radiator continues clicking and changes sound.

 

Gurgling noises 

It is also very likely that you may hear gurgling noises in your radiator, which is caused by trapped air that needs to be released. These air bubbles can get trapped along with the water, and cause cold spots on your radiator.

How to fix

A quick fix for this problem is to bleed your radiators, which we recommend doing every year before you start turning your heating back on in the colder months. 

To bleed your radiator, turn off your heating, and then use a radiator key to loosen the valve on each radiator by slowly turning it anti-clockwise. You should be able to hear a hissing sound as the air escapes. You can then close the valve once the air has been released. 

 

Running water

Your radiator may be making a noise which sounds like running water, which can also be caused by air pockets. Although water is used to heat the radiator, you shouldnt be able to hear the water. 

How to fix

You may also solve this issue by bleeding your radiator to ensure all the air escapes. 

 

Banging noises

Banging noises can be caused by kettling, which is a build up of limescale in your central heating system, not the actual radiators themselves. Hard water areas can be prone to kettling.

How to fix

In some cases, this can be solved by draining your radiator to free up the trapped air and water. Ensure that the boiler and gas supply is turned off and that your radiators are cool. You should have some liquid released from the radiator which you can catch in a bowl. At this point, you can close the valve and turn everything back on. 

If the nagging noise persists, you may need to have your boiler power flushed to ensure all the limescale and grime is removed.

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Causes of noisy radiators

Radiators tend to be silent, so when they start to make noises, it can be concerning. Whatever room they’re based in, there are numerous reasons why your radiators may be making noises:

  • Air bubbles form naturally in radiators and can cause noises due to air getting trapped inside the piping. The radiators will begin to make clicking noises due to the movement of the heated water through the pipes. This water leaves air behind, which expands and collapses in your piping. 


  • Pipe warping. Radiator pipes can expand and contract due to the heat they’re exposed to. Whilst they only expand slightly, this can still make creaks and bangs which can be heard throughout your home. 


  • Boiler kettling is a serious boiler malfunction which can cause unsettling noises within the central heating system. It only really occurs within hard water areas, and tends to be quite rare. As limescale builds in the boiler, radiator pipes become blocked. As the steam produced cools down, it makes rumbling and banging noises. 

 

How to stop radiators from whistling

The most likely reason why your radiator is making whistling noises is probably because there is trapped air inside or the water flow rate is too high. 

In order to stop it whistling, first start by bleeding your radiator. If this is unsuccessful and your radiator continues to make whistling noises, try turning the radiator cap closed.

If this is still unsuccessful, you may require the help of professionals. 

At Lacey Plumbing and Heating, our team is well equipped to diagnose a wide range of radiator and boiler problems and make the necessary repairs to get your heating system back up and running as soon as possible.

Our office team is always happy to talk through the issues that you have in order to assess whether or not you need an engineer visit. Please give us a call with your issue and we’ll try our best to help.

Find us

Unit 11 Eton Business Park

Eton Hill Road, Radcliffe, M26 2ZS

Opening Times

Mon – Fri 8am – 5pm

Call Us Today

0161 879 4949
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